Whether or not 'tis the season, Lisbon is a pinpoint on your map of the best boutiques
The build up to Christmas always feels like a flurry of general busy-ness, a surge of must.get.everything.done. pressure and then….sigh, pop the cork off, you can finally indulge in a few mince pies and kick back for a week of festive goings on. Or at least, that’s the idea.
During said week of bustling around, I thought it opportune to suggest a few of my favourite shopping spots in Lisbon. Not so much with gifts in mind, more of the, place that in your back pocket for later kind of information. Lisbon is after all, a home for many, but also a brilliant place for a weekend or extended holiday. Even in December it boasts on average, sunnier climes, and a lovely dash of sea air and cobble stone magic ,where you’ll find enough boutiques, cafes and restaurants to sate even the most discerning of tastes. Not to mention you might even catch some of Lisbon’s famed student societies performing one of their funny ritualistic ‘praxes’ or initiations and chanting for freshmen, as I did at the weekend. Which, incidentally they do dressed almost exactly like Harry Potter. Apparently the infamous J.K Rowling took a chunk of her inspiration for the books from Porto University, which explains a lot. When I passed through the centre yesterday there was a gathering of caped Potter lookalikes beside a Christmas tree yelling out what sounded like incantations straight from a spell book, and indeed the traditions do actually date back to the 14th century.
The charm of shopping in Lisbon is indeed this kind of tradition, blended quite seamlessly with the new. In 2015, the Lojas Com História project was launched to protect over 100 of Lisbon’s antique shops, some of which have been a part of the city since the 1700s. The idea was to promote their significance to Lisbon’s cultural and even political landscape. From candle makers, to tobacco and haberdasheries, these shops have an old world charm that deserves a mention in the top listings. So by category, here’s a few of the best for your next excursion perusing the Lisbon streets:
Portuguese Originals
Best for: Portugalia handmade wares and heritage brands
Address: Various locations
A Vida Portuguesa, translates to “the Portuguese life” and that’s exactly what the shop evokes. The idea was born in 2007 when journalist Catarina Portas began investigating heritage crafts and products. She discovered valuable traditional techniques, and wanted to share quality Portuguese artisinal goods such as woven Alentejo rugs and ceramics, baskets and cork into one store. There are four locations and all offer a great blend of older and contemporary goods.
Best for: Unique and non-toxic candles and scented votives
Address: Rua do Loreto 53, 1200-241 Lisboa, Portugal
I used to walk by this place and wonder what stories it had, it just oozes old world charm and it turns out, has been run by the same family for centuries. The Caza das Vellas Loreto was founded on 14 July 1789, (yes, Bastille day), coinciding with the beginning of the French Revolution. With its signature aroma of essential oils and honey drifting out into the cobbled Loreto street, this antiquarian candlemaker just calls at you to detour and explore it. The shop almost has the air of a tiny wooden chapel with arches and shelves displaying candles in accordance with the liturgical and seasonal rhythms, where votive candles mix with those in the shape of fruits and golden pine cones. This is not an ordinary shop, it feels like stepping back in time on entering, and the central location makes it an easy stop off. They also specialise in hand-embroidered candles, but you can order custom designs if preferred. Needless to say they also supply church candles, and there’s something very soothing about the quality and history behind the product.
Best for: Menswear with a Portuguese fisherman twist
Address: Rua das Flores 16, 1200-195 Lisboa, Portugal
La Paz does menswear differently. Founded in 2011 by André Bastos Teixeira and José Miguel de Abreu, they travelled throughout the country procuring the best of local manufacturing capability. What they realised was that regions had specific styles of clothing- from the plaid Nazaré shirt, the “capote” from Alentejo or the wool jumpers and socks from Serra da Estrela. Using this heritage as inspiration, they created classic collections that tend to have clean colour palettes and best of all, sustainable fabrics. The Rua das Flores store is an old ship’s hardware shop with charming high ceilings and antique fish-nets laced around low-lit lighting. Bring a little bit of rugged Atlantic coast magic home with you.
Vintage Fashion
Best for: Curated Vintage Fashion Finds
Address: R. do Poço dos Negros 90, 1200-341 Lisboa, Portugal
This is (call me biased) probably my favourite vintage store in Lisbon. The layout is very conducive to trying a lot of things on that perhaps you normally wouldn’t (see 1980s belted jacket with diamante fur shoulder pads below). Simply because it’s like a treasure chest of hand picked Italian and Portuguese pieces that are just fun. They also veer off the 90s Gen-Z club wear aesthetic that is easily replicable and found in a lot of vintage shops. Not dusty band tee-shirt or rail of camouflage in sight. Had I not been on a strict budget, I would definitely have bought the 80s jacket, plus a beautiful orange wool hand embroidered coat. And more. Somebody stop me. But seriously this shop is just lovely to visit and they even do live music and cocktails on selected nights. A vintage party is my kind of party.
Best for: A tight edit of on-trend, vintage fashion finds
Address: Rua de Santo Amaro, 1200-803 Lisboa, Portugal
This gem gets its inspiration from the grande dame of second hand shopping- Parisian vintage. Having spent more than one afternoon scouring Parisian flea markets for the chicest finds, I was impressed at the selection in Arquívos. Their store on Rua de Santo Amaro has a selection of hand-picked premium brands that have a 2000s streetwear style which would please any Zoomer. AQ2, is an addition to the Arquivos collection, and opened just this year with more luxury and designer pre-loved items. If you love finding a unique vintage Gucci, Dior or Vuitton, then this is your spot on the Lisbon map.
Other vintage stores worth a mention:
Reuse Second Hand and Vintage: A Santos staple. Have brunch at Flora and Fauna then pop over the street for a peruse. They also stock really quirky political memorabilia and a good selection of accessories. Rua da Esperança 24, 1200-109 Lisboa, Portugal
Humana Vintage: A large selection for all tastes in the trendy Graça neighbourhood. Largo da Graça 127, 1170-296 Lisboa, Portugal
Wetani: A mix of Portuguese labels and a small selection of vintage and jewellery. I love the swim and underwear they have by French brand Yasmine Eslami. Rua de S. Paulo 71A, 1200-109 Lisboa, Portugal
Books and Publications
Best for: English books, workshops and events, great natural wines and pastries
Address: Rua dos Prazeres 10A, Lisbon, Portugal 1200-820
Fable has only been around a year which is hard to believe given what a staple it’s become for English book lovers in Lisbon. For me that’s the genuinely good thing about it- the books are current, something I often struggled with living abroad was getting my hands on recently released books easily. They’re also clearly handpicked by someone who loves to read (owner Melyssa Griffin). Not only that but Fable is active and has a wonderful community spirit- open mics, book clubs, astrology, workshops- you name it. Even if you’re just visiting Lisbon, popping in for food and a gander at the ample book shelves is definitely worth a stop.
Best for: English language fiction and writing workshops
Address: Rua do Marquês de Abrantes 96, 1200-720 Lisboa, Portugal
Hurray for a couple of new English language book shops in Lisbon, naturally these two gems opened after I moved, but they are still a blessing even for holidaymakers in need of fresh reading material. That said, Portuguese bookstores are plentiful and often have tonnes of charm. English author and journalist Alex Holder opened Salted Books in 2021 after spotting the opportunity. Lovely bright blue shelves showcase a wide range of genres from across fiction to feminism and the arts. The other great thing is the writing workshops they host, which build community for up and coming writers, not to mention monthly fireside chats with international authors such as Lotte Jeffs and Emma Gannon (also on Substack), among others. Add to your list whether you live in Lisboa or are just on a city break.
If you’re a bookshop fan in generally then Livraria Bertrand in Chiado (commercial city centre) is also a pleasure- it was officially named oldest bookshop in the world having been founded in 1732. Which means Portugal boasts both the oldest and the self-proclaimed ‘most beautiful’ bookshop in the world- the title for which goes to Livraria Lello in Porto. I can confirm it’s again, very reminiscent of Harry Potter and has an entire theme room devoted to Le Petit Prince, which despite the flocks of tourists it attracts (be ready for a queue), is quite dainty and novel.
Feira de Alfarrabistas (Antique Book Fair) also occurs as a book market in the city centre every Saturday in Chiado, if you want to be a proper Lisbonite. In fact Lisbon has multiple markets which have great book, comic and vintage maps on sale. Not to mention the excellent selection of stunning old libraries.
Best for: Graphic design, unique magazines and journals
Address: R. Marquês Sá da Bandeira 88B, 1050-060 Lisboa, Portugal
Located close to Gulbenkian Park, it would be a waste not to mention this cool and compact spot for contemporary publications of all kinds. All interests are catered to- from art to travel and architecture, with niche coffee table beauties and an aesthetically pleasing ambience. Just a hint of nerdiness is what makes it all the more appealing. Then head to the famed Gulbenkian for an exhibit.
Music
Best for: Rare records from all eras and countries
Address: Rua do Angelina Vidal 80A, 1170-017 Lisboa, Portugal
Lisbon-based Groovie Records is a haven for record enthusiasts- and just so happens to also be a label, distributor and music producer in it’s own right. Based in a retro shop in Anjos, it’s tailor made for whiling away the time, flicking through records to your heart’s content. Whether it’s Brazilian psych, Portuguese jazz or finds from smaller, international indie labels, founder Edgar Raposo’s taste and talent is evidenced through the curated compilations and reissues of rare records. Look out for their own releases which pull from Portugal’s legacy of surf, garage and psychedelia.
Luxury and Designer
Best for: Colour-curated racks of luxury designer brands
Address: Rua Calçada do Sacramento 48, 1200-394 Lisboa, Portugal
Pop Closet could be in the vintage section, but to me it belongs under luxury. Stepping in here is like a trip to London or NYC. The owner Antonio Castel-Branco has curated a bright, fun atmosphere and offers two branches: the main store on Calçada do Sacramento for premium vintage, then a second location on Rua do Almirante, only a stones throw away, for more high end luxury brands.
Best for: Portuguese and emerging designers
Address: Calçada do Sacramento 26, 1200-203 Lisboa, Portugal
You’ll find The Feeting Room in what used to be a giant bakery and it’s a one stop shop for a huge range of the best local designers. Lisbon-based cotton essentials brand +351, Inês Telles Atelier and more. Shoppers can cover a lot of ground across the the sizeable space- everything from homewares, travel accessories to fashion you likely won’t find elsewhere. Perfect if you’re visiting and want to stash away some classy Portuguese pieces.
Best for: High end and luxury stalwart brands
Address: Av. da Liberdade 144, 1250-146 Lisboa, Portugal
If you’re looking for high end shopping in Lisbon, Avenida da Liberdade is where most of the classics are located. From French bohemian favourites like Isabel Marant or b&sh to Van Cleef & Arpels, they are all on this long wide leafy boulevard. The Fashion Clinic offers men and womenswear and an array of all the core luxury labels- Balenciaga, Gucci etc and perfumes and accessories too. If you can’t make it out to the designer department store El Corte Inglés, then the Fashion Clinic, plus a stroll along Avenida, should suffice.
Best for: French bobo brands, jewellery and homewares
Address: CC do Marquês de Abrantes 67A, 1200-808 Lisboa, Portugal
Symbols is one of the original shops in Lisbon stocking clothing and accessories inspired by Parisian chic (the owner is French). Antik Batik, Mes Demoiselles Paris and other curated brands would make any style conscious Lisboeta content. Books, candles and interiors are also covered for the chicest selection of sunny Lisbon homewares.
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